Dungeon Delve - Installation Instructions
Dungeon Delve Mod – Installation & Setup
For Stern Dungeons & Dragons: The Tyrant’s Eye
Thank you for purchasing the Dungeon Delve mod from Coming2U Mods! Follow this guide to install and test your mod.
*Looking for the USB Update? CLICK HERE
1. Before You Start
Tools Needed
- 1/4" nut driver (and 5/16" if needed for your posts)
- Phillips screwdriver
- Tweezers or small needle-nose pliers (helpful for fishing cables)
- Zip ties (included)
- Super glue (included, for minis)
Safety
- Remove the balls before fully raising the playfield.
- You should not need to cut, splice, or solder anything. All connections are plug-and-play.
2. Install the Power Cord in the Backbox
- Open the backbox.
- Locate the power distribution board.
- Find the included power supply cord with a gray end and a black end.
- Plug it into the center connector on the power distribution board:
- Gray end on the bottom.
- The connector is keyed and only goes in one way.
- Route the cable down through the large hole in the backbox into the cabinet.
3. Pull the Power Cable Into the Playfield Area
- Raise the playfield and rest it on the service rails.
- Reach into the cabinet and pull the power cable up into the playfield area.
- If you also have a Mimic Mod installed:
- You may already have this cord fished through.
- The kit includes two power connectors so you can power both Mimic and Dungeon Delve.
- If you don’t have Mimic installed, you’ll simply have a spare connector.
4. Unplug the Stock Spot Lamp & Flasher
- With the playfield up, look under the playfield in the top-right area near the hole where the mod will sit.
- Locate the two small plugs:
- One for the spot lamp.
- One for the flasher.
- Unplug both connectors.
- Push/fish these wires up through the hole to the top side of the playfield.
5. Mount the Main Electronics Box Under the Playfield
- Find the small Dungeon Delve electronics box.
- Under the playfield, mount it near the mod area:
- Use the existing white Stern harness clip and the included zip ties.
- There are holes on the electronics box for zip ties.
- On the electronics box:
- Bottom: power input from the backbox power cord.
-
Top: cables for:
- 2-pin opto flasher input.
- Two JST connectors (LED strip and ball sensor).
- Plug the opto flasher cable into the header that corresponds to the flasher (next to the spot lamp connector).
- You can plug the power cord into the electronics box now or wait until the end.
6. Remove Stock Flasher, Spotlight & Loosen the Plastic
- Lower the playfield so it rests on the front service rails (not fully down).
- On the top side where the mod will sit, remove the stock:
- Flasher assembly.
- Spotlight assembly.
- Remove the nearby nuts holding the large plastic:
- There are three or four in that cluster. It is easiest to remove all four.
- Gently lift the plastic so it can flex. This gives you more room to route cables through the hole.
7. Sculpt, Base, & Cable Channel Overview
Your mod has two main pieces:
- The main sculpt, which contains:
- The screen and its USB and display ribbon cables.
- A built-in cable channel underneath.
- The clear base piece, which sits where the stock plastic was and supports the sculpt.
You also have:
- A ball sensor with a JST plug.
- An LED strip with a JST plug.
The two JST cables will be routed through the sculpt’s cable channel and down through the playfield hole.
8. Route the Display & USB Cables Through the Hole
- Position the main sculpt loosely over its area (do not fully mount it yet).
- Identify the thin display ribbon cable and the USB cable from the sculpt.
- Under the lifted plastic, locate:
- The playfield hole.
- The two nearby metal bars/wireforms.
- Feed the display ribbon cable down through the hole:
- Ensure it passes between the two bars so the ball cannot hit it.
- Avoid sharp bends or kinks in the cable.
- Use tweezers or pliers if needed.
- Feed the USB cable down through the same hole.
- Use the small notch in the plastic near the hole (originally for stock wires) to guide the connectors through.
9. Place the Base & Route the JST Cables
- Set the clear base piece loosely in place over the post holes (do not fully tighten yet).
- Take the two JST cables (ball sensor and LED strip).
- Use the sculpt’s cable channel to route these JST plugs so they exit at the back opening.
- Feed both JST cables down through the same playfield hole as the USB and display ribbon.
- Ensure the JST cables are not pinched under the base or near any clip point.
- Secure the base using the screws/nuts:
- You can use all three screws, but two (end and front) are usually sufficient.
- Use a hex spacer from the removed spotlight (the shorter piece of the two) on the back nut
- Leave a small amount of slack in the cables so they do not bulge.
10. Mount the Sculpt on the Base
- Align the main sculpt over the base.
- Press down gently but firmly:
- The base has some flex; this is normal.
- Make sure all corners snap/seat fully.
- Check from the side:
- There should be no visible gaps between the clear base and the sculpt.
- All cables should be inside the wireform boundary, clear of the ball path.
- If your wire-form presses against the mod:
- Loosen its screw slightly, shift the wireform by a millimeter or two, then retighten.
11. Connect the Display Ribbon & HDMI Adapter
- Under the playfield, locate the display ribbon cable you routed down.
- Find the small HDMI adapter board included in the kit.
- On the adapter, flip the small black locking bar up.
- Insert the ribbon cable:
- Align the ribbon so the blue stiffener and the contacts match the orientation indicated in your kit.
- Slide the ribbon fully into the connector.
- Flip the black bar down to lock the ribbon in place.
- Plug a standard HDMI cable into the HDMI jack on this adapter.
- Connect the other end to a micro-HDMI adapter, then into the left micro-HDMI port on the Raspberry Pi.
If you do not get video when powered on, this connection is the first thing to re-check.
12. Connect JST Cables, Screen Power & Main Power
- Find the two JST cables from the sculpt under the playfield.
- On the electronics box, plug them into the labeled headers:
- LED strip → lighting JST header.
- Ball sensor → ball sensor JST header.
- Match any color or marker codes on the headers and connectors.
- From the accessories bag, take the USB-C to USB-A adapter.
- Plug the USB-C cable from the sculpt into this adapter.
- Plug the adapter into the left USB-A port on the Raspberry Pi (the other USB-A port stays unused).
- Plug the power cord from the backbox into the power input jack on the electronics box.
- Tidy up any slack with zip ties so nothing hangs in the ball path.
13. Power On & Test
- Verify that:
- No wires are in the ball path.
- The sculpt and base are firmly mounted.
- Plug the game back in and power it on.
- Watch the Dungeon Delve mod:
- The Raspberry Pi will boot.
- You should see a brief boot sequence on the screen.
- It will then switch to the idle portal/rune animation.
- LEDs on the sculpt should run their idle pattern.
- Test the flasher trigger:
- Whenever that original flasher would fire, the Dungeon Delve should flash/animate.
- Test the ball sensor:
- You can turn off high voltage at the coin door if you want to stop the main flasher from firing constantly in attract mode.
- Roll a ball under the ball sensor beneath the sculpt.
- You should see an LED chase sequence and a corresponding screen animation.
14. Install the Minis
- In your kit you will find:
- A bag of goblin and hero miniatures.
- A bag with stickers and super glue.
- Arrange the minis without glue to decide placement:
- Suggested layout: goblins near the back by the portal, hero on the center dais/pedestal.
- Once satisfied, put a small dab of glue under each mini’s feet and press them into place.
- Allow glue to cure:
- At least 1 hour before play.
- Overnight curing is ideal for maximum strength.
- If you prefer, you can use your own minis. Just ensure they are securely glued and do not interfere with the ball path.
15. Troubleshooting & Support
- No video on the screen: Re-check the display ribbon orientation and seating, the HDMI adapter, and the micro-HDMI connection.
- Lights work but no triggers: Double-check the JST plugs on the electronics box and that the correct flasher is tapped.
- Ball hitting the mod or wireform: Confirm cables are within the wireform, and slightly adjust the wireform or mod position if necessary.
If you have any issues you cannot resolve, please reach out through the contact form on the Coming2U Mods website. Please include your game model and clear photos of the install area.
Dungeon Delve Mod – Installation & Setup
For Stern Dungeons & Dragons: The Tyrant’s Eye
Thank you for purchasing the Dungeon Delve mod from Coming2U Mods! Follow this guide to install and test your mod.
1. Before You Start
Tools Needed
- 1/4" nut driver (and 5/16" if needed for your posts)
- Phillips screwdriver
- Tweezers or small needle-nose pliers (helpful for fishing cables)
- Zip ties (included)
- Super glue (included, for minis)
Safety
- Turn the game off and unplug it before working.
- Remove the balls before fully raising the playfield.
- You should not need to cut, splice, or solder anything. All connections are plug-and-play.
2. Install the Power Cord in the Backbox
- Open the backbox.
- Locate the power distribution board.
- Find the included power supply cord with a gray end and a black end.
- Plug it into the center connector on the power distribution board:
- Gray end on the bottom.
- The connector is keyed and only goes in one way.
- Route the cable down through the large hole in the backbox into the cabinet.
3. Pull the Power Cable Into the Playfield Area
- Raise the playfield and rest it on the service rails.
- Reach into the cabinet and pull the power cable up into the playfield area.
- If you also have a Mimic Mod installed:
- You may already have this cord fished through.
- The kit includes two power connectors so you can power both Mimic and Dungeon Delve.
- If you don’t have Mimic installed, you’ll simply have a spare connector.
4. Unplug the Stock Spot Lamp & Flasher
- With the playfield up, look under the playfield in the top-right area near the hole where the mod will sit.
- Locate the two small plugs:
- One for the spot lamp.
- One for the flasher.
- Unplug both connectors.
- Push/fish these wires up through the hole to the top side of the playfield.
5. Mount the Main Electronics Box Under the Playfield
- Find the small Dungeon Delve electronics box.
- Under the playfield, mount it near the mod area:
- Use the existing white Stern harness clip and the included zip ties.
- There are holes on the electronics box for zip ties.
- On the electronics box:
- Bottom: power input from the backbox power cord.
-
Top: cables for:
- 2-pin opto flasher input.
- Two JST connectors (LED strip and ball sensor).
- Plug the opto flasher cable into the header that corresponds to the flasher (next to the spot lamp connector).
- You can plug the power cord into the electronics box now or wait until the end.
6. Remove Stock Flasher, Spotlight & Loosen the Plastic
- Lower the playfield so it rests on the front service rails (not fully down).
- On the top side where the mod will sit, remove the stock:
- Flasher assembly.
- Spotlight assembly.
- Remove the nearby nuts holding the large plastic:
- There are three or four in that cluster. It is easiest to remove all four.
- Gently lift the plastic so it can flex. This gives you more room to route cables through the hole.
7. Sculpt, Base & Cable Channel Overview
Your mod has two main pieces:
- The main sculpt, which contains:
- The screen and its USB and display ribbon cables.
- A built-in cable channel underneath.
- The clear base piece, which sits where the stock plastic was and supports the sculpt.
You also have:
- A ball sensor with a JST plug.
- An LED strip with a JST plug.
The two JST cables will be routed through the sculpt’s cable channel and down through the playfield hole.
8. Route the Display & USB Cables Through the Hole
- Position the main sculpt loosely over its area (do not fully mount it yet).
- Identify the thin display ribbon cable and the USB cable from the sculpt.
- Under the lifted plastic, locate:
- The playfield hole.
- The two nearby metal bars/wireforms.
- Feed the display ribbon cable down through the hole:
- Ensure it passes between the two bars so the ball cannot hit it.
- Avoid sharp bends or kinks in the cable.
- Use tweezers or pliers if needed.
- Feed the USB cable down through the same hole.
- Use the small notch in the plastic near the hole (originally for stock wires) to guide the connectors through.
9. Place the Base & Route the JST Cables
- Set the clear base piece loosely in place over the post holes (do not fully tighten yet).
- Take the two JST cables (ball sensor and LED strip).
- Use the sculpt’s cable channel to route these JST plugs so they exit at the back opening.
- Feed both JST cables down through the same playfield hole as the USB and display ribbon.
- Ensure the JST cables are not pinched under the base or near any clip point.
- Secure the base using the screws/nuts:
- You can use all three screws, but two (end and front) are usually sufficient.
- Leave a small amount of slack in the cables so they do not bulge.
10. Mount the Sculpt on the Base
- Align the main sculpt over the base.
- Press down gently but firmly:
- The base has some flex; this is normal.
- Make sure all corners snap/seat fully.
- Check from the side:
- There should be no visible gaps between the clear base and the sculpt.
- All cables should be inside the wireform boundary, clear of the ball path.
- If your wireform presses against the mod:
- Loosen its screw slightly, shift the wireform by a millimeter or two, then retighten.
11. Connect the Display Ribbon & HDMI Adapter
- Under the playfield, locate the display ribbon cable you routed down.
- Find the small HDMI adapter board included in the kit.
- On the adapter, flip the small black locking bar up.
- Insert the ribbon cable:
- Align the ribbon so the blue stiffener and the contacts match the orientation indicated in your kit.
- Slide the ribbon fully into the connector.
- Flip the black bar down to lock the ribbon in place.
- Plug a standard HDMI cable into the HDMI jack on this adapter.
- Connect the other end to a micro-HDMI adapter, then into the left micro-HDMI port on the Raspberry Pi.
If you do not get video when powered on, this connection is the first thing to re-check.
12. Connect JST Cables, Screen Power & Main Power
- Find the two JST cables from the sculpt under the playfield.
- On the electronics box, plug them into the labeled headers:
- LED strip → lighting JST header.
- Ball sensor → ball sensor JST header.
- Match any color or marker codes on the headers and connectors.
- From the accessories bag, take the USB-C to USB-A adapter.
- Plug the USB-C cable from the sculpt into this adapter.
- Plug the adapter into the left USB-A port on the Raspberry Pi (the other USB-A port stays unused).
- Plug the power cord from the backbox into the power input jack on the electronics box.
- Tidy up any slack with zip ties so nothing hangs in the ball path.
13. Power On & Test
- Verify that:
- No wires are in the ball path.
- The sculpt and base are firmly mounted.
- Plug the game back in and power it on.
- Watch the Dungeon Delve mod:
- The Raspberry Pi will boot.
- You should see a brief boot sequence on the screen.
- It will then switch to the idle portal/rune animation.
- LEDs on the sculpt should run their idle pattern.
- Test the flasher trigger:
- Whenever that original flasher would fire, the Dungeon Delve should flash/animate.
- Test the ball sensor:
- You can turn off high voltage at the coin door if you want to stop the main flasher from firing constantly in attract mode.
- Roll a ball under the ball sensor beneath the sculpt.
- You should see an LED chase sequence and a corresponding screen animation.
14. Install the Minis
- In your kit you will find:
- A bag of goblin and hero miniatures.
- A bag with stickers and super glue.
- Arrange the minis without glue to decide placement:
- Suggested layout: goblins near the back by the portal, hero on the center dais/pedestal.
- Once satisfied, put a small dab of glue under each mini’s feet and press them into place.
- Allow glue to cure:
- At least 1 hour before play.
- Overnight curing is ideal for maximum strength.
- If you prefer, you can use your own minis. Just ensure they are securely glued and do not interfere with the ball path.
15. Troubleshooting & Support
- No video on the screen: Re-check the display ribbon orientation and seating, the HDMI adapter, and the micro-HDMI connection.
- Lights work but no triggers: Double-check the JST plugs on the electronics box and that the correct flasher is tapped.
- Ball hitting the mod or wireform: Confirm cables are within the wireform, and slightly adjust the wireform or mod position if necessary.
If you have any issues you cannot resolve, please reach out through the contact form on the Coming2U Mods website. Please include your game model and clear photos of the install area.